The Hog Blog

Over the last couple of months, I’ve received a handful of emails from folks asking for info about getting started hog hunting.  Some of them have been from brand new hunters, while some others have been away from the sport for a while and want to get back into it.  I’ve been trying to reply as best I can, and hope I’m being helpful. 

I just received another one today, and thought that, for a change, I’d share the email with all of you HogBlog readers in hopes that maybe ya’ll can offer some of your own suggestions, on top of my own (mine will follow).  So here’s what I got from CMJ.

Greetings from Yuba City,
 
I have been a hunter all my life except for the 20 years between college and now. I have stayed up on my shooting but havent been able to get out into the woods (and range) due to working and family and such.
 
Now I have the time, the gear (out of date, I am sure) and the inclination to bag some wildlife. I really want to get into hunting pigs.  I am no more that 90 minutes from the Red Bluff area; ditto the Clear Lake region.  None of my local companions are interested and so I am going to be on my own.
 
Can you give me the 3 basic tips to get a start?
 
Thank you for your time.

“Three basic tips…”   

Narrowing it down to only three tips is a pretty tall order when it comes to hunting wild hogs.  There’s a lot to say, but I like the challenge! 

Tip #1 -  Go Where There Are Pigs

Do some research to find out where the hogs are living.  There are certainly some pigs in both of the areas you mention, although finding them on public land will likely prove to be a real challenge.  Actually, finding hogs on public land anywhere in this state is a low-odds proposition.  But they’re out there, and folks are killing them on public land.  But you’ll have to work at it, because I can almost promise only a really good friend will give up a truly productive area. 

Which means you need to do your own detective work.  This email was a good start.  I’d recommend also touching base with the DFG biologists for the areas you’re thinking about hunting.  Their general, first answer you’ll get is that the hogs in places like Clear Lake and Tehama are largely transient.  If you go there, you’ll find sign, but the hogs left that sign on the way to private land where the feed is better, the water is more plentiful, and the hunting pressure is lighter.  This is where your hunting skills come into play.  The successful hunter is the one who figures out when, and where, these pigs are crossing the public land (the where is not too tough, and the when is usually in the dark of night). 

My main recommendation to anyone hoping to get out and find hogs is to go with a guide, though.  I know it seems expensive, but look at it this way.  It generally takes repeat trips to public land just to find hogs, and once you add up fuel, time spent, and the expenses of a road trip, you’re spending about the same money as you would for one guided hunt.  The trade-off is that a day or two with a guide can provide you with a ton  of learning that you can later apply on do-it-yourself trips. 

Tip #2 - Gear selection

The great thing about hog hunting is that it really doesn’t require a ton of gear.  All you need is a good pair of boots, comfortable clothes for the weather conditions, binoculars, and your chosen weapon.  So let’s take a quick look at these components.

Boots sort of go without saying.  Hunting CA presents a lot of hiking in moderate to blazing hot weather, and the ground is covered with spiky plants, burrs, and other stuff that you just don’t want poking you in the ankles or dropping down inside your shoes.  High tops are pretty much required.

Comfort is the top priority here, because as any western hunter knows, nothing will ruin a hunt faster than sore, tired feet.  While many hunting boot makers are starting to design lightweight, warm-weather boots, be careful.  The majority of “hunting” boots are designed for eastern whitetail hunters, and are loaded with insulation.  You don’t want that for humping the ridges and canyons, because your feet will be soaked in sweat in no time.  I often tell folks to take a look at hiking boots, where you’ll find a lot of variety and options. 

Waterproof boots are a bonus, but only required for part of the season in most of this state.  I still think they’re a good idea just because I like having gear that is useful for all around use… not to mention that some of the best hog hunting is in the cold, wet season. 

Everybody has different preferences in what makes boots comfortable, so you’ll need to try some different ones to determine what suits you.  It’s worth the time, and worth the money to get good boots.  However, good boots are not always the most expensive.  I’ve been real happy with the LL Bean Maine Hunting boot, which runs about $89.  Of course, a lot of guys are crazy about the Danner boots.   

Clothing is a wide-open category.  Honestly, you can hunt quite successfully in a business suit if you’re so inclined.  Of course you want practicality, which includes durable fabric that provides protection from the elements in which you’re hunting.  Clothing designed specifically for hunters generally takes this into account, which is its best selling point.  You’ll also do well with military surplus, since it’s designed for rugged, outdoor use.  It used to be the way to go for a hunter on a budget, but milsurp has become “fashionable” and the cost has gone up with the demand.  A decent set of BDU pants costs as much as anything you’ll get from Mossy Oak or RealTree. 

A note about camo… I’ve written before about this stuff, but the bottom line is, it’s not necessary, so it certainly doesn’t make any difference which pattern or design you choose… or if you choose to use none.  I would avoid solid dark colors or large expanses of white, but other than that whatever you’re comfortable wearing should be fine.  I’ve been threatening this for years, and I’m gonna do it… I’ll video a hog hunt wearing Hawaiian shirts just to prove my point.

On to optics…

The standard axiom is that when it comes to optics, get the best you can afford because quality is generally proportional to cost.  I tend to agree with this perspective.   Big game hunting in the west usually involves a lot of glassing, and the more time you spend staring through binoculars, the more you’ll come to appreciate a clear, bright image.  Still, any binos are better than no binos at all.  What you absolutely should NEVER do is get into the habit of using your riflescope for glassing. 

What about riflescopes?  Keep it simple.  Again, you want the best quality you can afford, but you don’t need a hand-held Hubble, either.  The basic 3-9×40 is a great, all-around configuration for big game hunting.  In a quality scope, this provides plenty of power and light-gathering ability for acquiring and targeting, while it’s small and light enough not to be a hindrance while hiking. 

The other consideration here is that the high-power scopes bring additional complications, primarily parallax.  Once you get over 10 or 12 power magnification, your point of aim and point of impact begin to diverge.  Of course quality, high-power scopes allow you to adjust for parallax, but my argument here is that you’re now dealing with one more factor.  Hunting situations often require quick reaction, and by adding one more adjustment to deal with you’re handicapping yourself. 

A last note on scopes, and it should go without saying but I see folks forget it all the time… ALWAYS set your scope to the lowest power setting except when you’re getting ready to shoot.  As soon as you’re done shooting, set it back down.  This habit will pay off when you stumble over that close-range hog as you’re hiking through the chemise.  At high power, you’ll have a really hard time finding your target. 

And to that last piece of gear… the weapon. 

Hogs are, nominally, a dangerous game animal.  Sure, they’re not grizzlies or cape buffalo, but they’re tough and have the potential (and recommendation) to really ruin your day.  When you try to kill one, you want to be successful… not only because you want a humane kill, but because you don’t want to risk personal harm.

When it comes to hog rifles, I’m not sure I fully get behind the .30 caliber or better “rule” that many guides and experts call for, but I do get behind the rationale for that rule.  Use enough gun.  You want to deliver plenty of energy, combined with accuracy.  I think this can be achieved nicely with the .270 and 7mm class of firearms.  I’ve killed hogs with smaller calibers, and I know it’s done on a regular basis, but the margin of error gets smaller with the caliber you choose.  For hunting the conditions most common in CA, I’d definitely recommend going bigger (within reason).  You may be shooting anywhere from archery distances to a couple-hundred yards (further if you’re skilled at long-range shooting).  You want a caliber that will still deliver deadly energy, even if placement isn’t perfect. 

This is where the 30-06 or .300 tends to outshine something like the .243 and 6mm.  As much as we like to think we’re dead-eye marksmen, field shooting is fraught with uncontrolled circumstances and even the best hunter has made a bad hit.  With a poorly placed shot, a bigger, more powerful round is more likely to do more damage than a smaller, less powerful round.  That seems like a “duh” statement, I know.  Then why do so many people insist on using tiny guns to shoot hogs?

OK, so point being… if you’re rifle hunting, go with something from .270 on up.  A 30-06 has the reputation of being “the best all around” for a reason, and I like it a lot for deer hunting.  However, I will say that if you only have a .243, .260, or .257, then you can still hunt hogs.  Just be conscientious about your shot choices, keep the ranges moderate, and wait for a good target as if you were bowhunting.

Speaking of bowhunting…  any good, modern bow pulling at least 50 lbs will be fine for hogs.  Most hog hunters like a larger, fixed-blade broadhead.  When I was hunting with my recurve, I used a 140gr., two-bladed Magnus point.   However with my compound, I’m so far pretty happy with a 100gr, fixed broadhead… mostly because they are shooting really well with my bow.  Accuracy is critical, and I’m happier with the accuracy of the 100gr over the 125 and 140s. 

And that leads us to Tip #3.

Tip #3 is a simple warning… Hog hunting is addictive! 

Take heed, if you start hunting wild hogs, you will get hooked.  I don’t know how you couldn’t.  First of all, they’re a great, challenging animal to hunt, but they’re not insanely difficult.  If you’re in a productive area, they’re probably a little easier than deer.  If you’re in a tougher spot, like public land, the rewards of finding a hog are hard to describe and a heady brew for the lucky hunter.  Either way, they’re an awesome quarry.

Second, you can hunt them all year long, which means there’s no off-season.  Don’t wanna mow the yard?  Go hog hunting.  Don’t want to shovel snow?  Go hog hunting.  Your favorite football or basketball team is sucking this year?  Go hog hunting! 

And finally, they’re delicious!  Even folks who generally don’t like wild game such as venison or ducks, love wild pork!  And a single pig provides a freezer full of sausage, pork chops, ribs, and roasts. 

So before you start, you need to know going in that once you dive into hog hunting, you’re in deep.  You’ll dream about hogs, talk about hogs, see hog trails and sign on every hillside, and start looking for new places and methods to hunt them.  And there is no twelve-step program for this addiction. 

Good luck with it!

Now, to anyone who’s still reading (I’ve topped 2000 words), what would be YOUR three tips to CMJ?

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